Here is a GREAT guide on how to install a set of D12 coilovers into an S13 Silvia. I would assume the process is very simalar in all Nissan Silvia models. In this guide we have used a S13 180sx fitted with a CA18DET. This guide has been written by OMZ180 and I thank her heaps for the article.
My advice after picking up your new D2 suspension is to admire it, for a long period of time, stroke and caress it, its too pretty to just rush straight into.
If you purchased yours from *BIG PLUG* OPTION 1 GARAGE – which is where you should go for all your Nissan needs – chances are Paul would have had a bit of a look at your suspension making sure the bolts are tight and they are low and even and he will explain to you how to lower your car after fitting and how to change from soft to hard. He recommends that all new installs are done on full soft and adjust up from there.
First things first, you will need the following tools:
Trolley jack (or two of the other kind)
Jack stands
12mm, 14mm, and 17mm socket and wrenches
Wheel chocks or spare rims… whatever you have lying around
Spring compressors
Pliers
Socket extension
Hammer and breaker bar as some bolts are hard to crack
So what we need to do is to loosen the wheel nuts on the front two tires – we need to take these off soon. Chock your back wheels and jack the front end of the car up. Once you have enough clearance, pop your jack stands under (use proper jack points – these are in your cars service manual). From there you need to take both front wheels off.
From here you need to loosen these three bolts. You will need a 14mm socket to do this. Loosen these right up, but DO NOT take them off.
Then loosen the bottom strut bolts, this requires a 17mm socket and a lot of strength, mine had been on for 16 years and it showed. You may need to use a breaker bar and/or a hammer.
Note I am looking at the other side, but these are the next you need to loosen after doing the top bolts. See below the view from the other side, the bold circled in red needs to come off next, this has a brake line attached use a 12mm for this.
Then in behind this is a surclip holding your brake line to your strut. Push the surclip off and the line will just come out.
Next you need to compress your springs before you do that.
Take your spring compressors (use two) and put it on the highest part and the lowest part on each side.
Once the spring is compressed, take the two bolts out of the bottom of the strut (17mm). Be aware that the rotor will fall forward once these are undone. Then the strut is only held in by the loosened bolts up the top (14mm). Undo these and remove the strut from the wheel arch.
Now you've done all you need to do to get it out, the next thing is to put the new stuff in. As you will probably be lowering your car, work out how low you want and adjust accordingly. Make sure all of your new suspension is set to the same size. I did mine by screwing all the way to the bottom and then counting how many turns I did until I thought it looked right. This is a judgement thing, it is your own preference how much you want to lower it. This method is quicker and easier than counting thread.
The comparo above.
Take your new strut and poke through the top and do up the three top bolts (14mm).
As these are lowered springs, you will need to jack up just behind the rotor on the frame support to get it up to match the bolt holes.
Chuck the big bolts in on the end of these, you will need to put the back brake line holder (see next picture) and tighten up the allen keys adjustors at the back.
In the next pic you will see that there is brake line with an attachment which has nowhere to attach. We are drilling a hole through the brake line holder to attach this (see pic below).
Here is what it looked like once we had done the drilling. We used double bolts to make sure they would not come off.
Go around and do a full tighten of everything, just to make sure.
Next the back suspension.
As with the front, jack the car up and install jack stands, here are my assistant pit crew and general muscle. Take the back wheels off.
From here you need to open the boot and see the two little flaps just behind the back seat. Pop these off with a flat head screwdriver to reveal the suspension bolts.
Loosen these off with a 12mm spanner as far as you can without undoing them. Then loosen the bolt on the back of the rotor that attaches the suspension (17mm).
Put your spring compressors on again.
Fully undo the two top bolts (14mm) and then undo the bottom one behind the rotor (17mm). Your rotor wont fall off with this one.
Here is the old one out of the car.
Now its time to get the new stuff in the back.
Look in the next photo which I altered from above, the strut must be put into this ring then as with the front you need to poke the new suspension through the top and do those bolts up first (12mm).
You will need to jack your frame up just behind the rotor to get the fit right. Then pop the big bolt through and bolt it up.
Now go around and do a full tighten on everything. Can never be too careful. Cover the holes in the boot back up with their little covers ( I couldn't fit the rubber dust covers back on the new suspension so I left them off).
Then slowly jack up each side and remove the jack stand and let them down evenly. Next step is to take your pride and joy for a spin... I was astounded how much of an improvement it made... and lower... nice as!!!
Schweet!!! But there is always room to go lower. First drive was awesome... tight and firm and on the road which is something I haven't felt from my car in a while.
